Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Tuesday 18th Delhi to Agra & the Taj Mahal

We rise early and catch the 7 o'clock train called the Taj Express to Agra. There's very little English spoken here (except for some of the European back-packers) so it's a real adventure getting on the right train. Pervez's pre-arrangements and our excellent driver Kuldeep really save the day and get us on the right train.


The train to Agra is smooth, fast and punctual; definitely the way to go. In Agra we are met by a new driver and surprised to learn that we also have a guide. Mr Lala is an expert on the Taj Mahal and has lived in Agra all his 60-some years. It is Spring here and by Agra standards just a temperate day. But.. it's 97 *@#% degrees! We drink a lot of water and press on even though our car's A/C barely works. I don't think our driver understands "needs Freon".

The Taj Mahal is incredible. Surely the pictures we took do not do it justice. The highly crystalized white marble and the way it is sited so that it only has blue sky for a background are some of the secrets of its beauty. Unlike some of the temples in Delhi, this one is truly pristine. There is no graffiti inside and the grounds are immaculately kept. You can tell India treats this as its crown jewel. Mr Lala points out the way the marble is inlaid with semi-precious stones. He even uses a flashlight to demonstrate how translucent they are inside the Taj. Even the writing shown in this picture is done with inlaid onyx.


OK, here is the time to give a little background. The guide was definitely not part of the plan and yes he was kind of foisted on us by our driver. As an American, your first reaction is to send him packing because this must be some kind of rip-off. In our case, it turned out not to be true. His fee for the day was 500 rupees (about $12) and worth every penny. For example, we would not have known that the minarets surrounding the Taj actually lean away from it. It's easy to see if you look at, but not at all clear if you did not know. He also knew all the good "Kodak Moment" picture spots so we were able to get some great shots. Obviously, he took this one.






Our last stop about an hour outside Agra on the way to Jaipur is The Bagh. This is a 22 acre walled resort that is truly a haven of peace and quiet set in an old orchard. There are no horns beeping here. The last picture is taken outside our room. This place is supposed to be a bird reserve but at this point all we've seen is a pair of full grown turkeys and their turklets(?) More about that on the next blog... It is time for breakfast.

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